If you’ve not heard of Nokogiriyama also known as “Sawtooth Mountain” in Chiba yet, you are in for a treat! A short journey from Tokyo, an underrated hidden world of mysterious statues, a beautiful temple (the oldest in the Kanto region!), and lush nature is waiting for you to arrive. Oh and I also forgot to mention a view of hell (no, really) but more on that later. Let’s get started on our day trip from Tokyo to Nokogiriyama!
Taking the ropeway at Nokogiriyama
At the base of Mt. Nokogiri there’s a ropeway station to help get you to the top of the mountain. Some people also choose to hike up, but I would recommend this only if you are very fit! The ropeway only costs 950¥ return and you’re able to see beautiful views of the forest and the ocean.
You’ll also get to spot the mysterious-looking Wall of Laputa. Once you get to the top & exit the ropeway station, you can take a look at the viewpoint. Unfortunately it was cloudy when we went so the sky & the sea blended together! You might want to grab a quick drink or snack before you set off (or better yet, pack your own) as there aren’t opportunities en route.
Face to face with the Hyaku-shaku Kannon (the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy)
After walking a short while, ten minutes or so, you’ll come across fork in the path. You’ll want to choose the direction towards the Hyaku-shaku Kannon (百尺観音). You’ll soon walk through a moss covered ravine with a cobbled pathway – you really do get Ghibli vibes here! Then as you come around the corner, you’ll come face to face with the 30-meter tall Hyaku-shaku Kannon – the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. I was lost for words, it was honestly so impressive! I was surprised though, it’s not as ancient as it looks – it was only carved in the 1960s! Built on the remains of an old stone quarry, it’s purpose is to act as a memorial for the victims of World War 2. If you have a journey coming up, it could be worth praying & leaving a little donation here, as the Goddess is also seen as a protector of travel safety.
Whilst here, take a look up, can you see the rather precarious ledge? That’s where you’ll be heading to next…
Now, ready for Jigoku Nozoki – a sneak peek of Hell?
It’s called 地獄のぞき jigoku nozoki – the view of Hell, and for anyone who’s as scared of heights as I am, it lives up to it’s name! You might have to wait to get your picture here, so make sure if you want this shot, that the person taking the photo is ready & waiting in the area with picnic benches. If you’re not fussed & want to keep your nerves intact, I wouldn’t recommend queueing as I think the view is just as impressive from the surrounding area. The ground naturally is very uneven here, so I recommend wearing sensible shoes & holding on tight to that railing!
Hiking on to Nihon-ji temple to see Chiba’s Daibutsu!
Now comes the main hike! For us two who had barely done any exercise during the stay home period, this was really quite challenging. There’s a lot of steps and some uneven ground, and we weren’t the best prepared to say the least. Don’t make the same mistakes we did and wear sandals! However, if you’re reasonably fit with sensible shoes on, I think it wouldn’t be too bad.
As you walk you’ll pass lots of little statues known as rakan arhat statues. Many of them sadly lost their heads during the anti-Buddhism movement in the late 1800s. They’re an interesting sight to see though, as the ones that still have their heads have such a range of expressions. You can almost feel their personality & imagine them as real humans. I know that sounds strange to say but see for yourself!
Nokogiriyama’s Daibutsu – Buddha of Healing
Now on to the next wondrous sight that this place offers, and is probably what you’re here for, the huge 31m tall Daibutsu (Big Buddha). Although there are many Daibutsu in Japan, there is something truly special about this one. There’s something that makes you feel more than what you experience at other Big Buddhas around Japan. Perhaps it’s the fact it’s carved out of stone, surrounded by lush greenery, or perhaps it’s just the sheer size of it (being twice the size of the Nara & Kamakura Daibutsu).
This particular Daibutsu represents the Buddha of Healing (known as Yakushi Nyorai in Japanese). Can you spot the little medicine jar in his hand? That’s one way we can identify him. Soak in the healing atmosphere for a while here, rest on the benches and enjoy a picnic before making your way back.
Make your wish with a Jizo at Nihon-ji temple
As Nihon-ji is one of the oldest temples in the Kanto region, started around 1,300 years ago, making a prayer/wish here is a must I think. Next to the Big Buddha, you can purchase a small Jizo, you write your name on the back of it and make a wish before placing it next to the hundreds of others. Amazing to see how many people have made wishes!
After you’ve made your wish, start the hike back to the ropeway. You’ll undoubtedly come across more statues and even some more temple buildings!
Access & tips for your day trip to Nokogiriyama
Coming by car?
We found the easiest and most comfortable way to do a day trip from Tokyo to Nokogiriyama was to drive. There are plenty of car parks around, including quite far up the mountain if you want to cut down the amount of hiking. However there is a small charge for driving up the mountain. We chose to park at the base of the ropeway.
Coming by train from Tokyo?
Take the JR Sobu Line Rapid to Kimitsu, transfer for the Uchibo line towards Tateyama and you need to get off at Hama-Kanaya station. It will take around two hours and cost around 2000Yen one way. I recommend checking the most convenient train route on Hyperdia before departing. From Hama-Kanaya, it’s approximately a 30 minute walk. I’ve heard that you can pick up a map from the station to help you get there, you will enter from a different route than the one outlined in this article but you’ll still see the same sights.
Opening hours – 09.00-17.00
It does take quite a while to travel from Tokyo to Nokogiriyama but I guarantee you won’t regret taking this day trip. If you have time, I recommend eating an early lunch at the base as there are a few restaurants along the shore, we ate at The Fish for some fresh sushi. Make sure to wear sensible shoes, bring an onigiri and water bottle & get hiking! I’m already planning to go back again soon!
If you’d like a recommendation for another wonderful hike, especially in summer and autumn, I recommend checking out my post on Shosenkyo Gorge in Yamanashi.
I hope you enjoyed reading my experience of a day trip from Tokyo to Nokogiriyama and if you visit, please feel free to tag me on Instagram so I can see your experience! If you have any questions, of course feel free to comment or DM me on Instagram.
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